Donkey Care

Donkeys are very hardy animals that generally require a lot less medical attention than horses. Donkeys being an equine and similar to horses generally suffer from similar illnesses and ailments.

To treat all these subjects in detail is beyond the scope of this website. There are many publications and sources of information concerning care for donkeys. See the links page for some accurate sources of advice.

As we maintain our pack teams in tropical conditions. I have listed some particular issues for keeping donkeys in the tropics that we have learned from experience.

Wounds and trauma injuries. Treat as for human first aid, the principles are the same. Stem bleeding and keep a wound clean.Use strong salt solutions to clean wounds. If the injury involves a deep wound, administer a a tetanus antitoxin dose that will provide an immediate protection for up to three weeks. This not a substitute for correct tetanus vaccination.

Tetanus. Equines are very susceptible to tetanus infections which are extremely difficult and expensive to treat once detected.

Tick Paralysis

Donkeys are susceptible to tick paralysis caused by the “Shellback” or “Paralysis” tick (Ixodes holocyclus). This insect is endemic to the East coast of Australia. It seems amazing that a large, hardy animal such as a donkey can succumb very rapidly to such a small insect. Hundreds of dogs and cats die each year in our region as a result of tick paralysis. Many horses are victims and often the cause is blamed incorrectly on snakebite. Tick paralysis is a serious illness, yet few people seem to understand the mechanism so I include a short explanation. I draw from our own experiences and two articles that are available as web pages.

Identification.The “Paralysis or Shellback” tick is one of a number of ticks that are present in Northern Australia. All ticks are similar in appearance and habits. The paralysis tick is the most dangerous. Other species are:

The female paralysis tick is distinctive when partially or fully engorged as it has a hard shell and a particular arrangement of the legs.

Process. The adult female tick crawls onto a host animal and when satisfied that it has found a suitable position it attaches itself by rotating and drilling into the victim’s skin with it’s mouth parts. The tick then engorges on blood in order to produce eggs. The female injects a neurotoxin, possibly associated with an anticoagulant. Male ticks also crawl onto the host, but simply search for females with which to mate. Only adult female ticks cause paralysis.

The toxin’s mechanism is not well understood, and a victim animal’s reaction to the venom can be very variable. In the worst case the animal suffers from severe paralysis and collapses, whilst suffering cardiac and respiratory distress. There is generally an accumulative effect. Animals can develop a resistance but this is a short-term reaction and should not be relied on.

Tick Season. The recognised “Tick season” extends from July to January. This is subject to vagaries of the weather and can extend or vary considerably. Adult ticks can be present all year in suitable conditions. The paralysis tick undergoes three moults to achieve breeding maturity. In each case a host animal is required. Native animals, particularly Bandicoots, host ticks and carry them into grazing areas.

Prevention. Donkeys (and horses) may be treated with an insecticide that helps to repel and kill ticks. If the treatment is maintained then the intermediate cycle is interrupted and the number of adult female ticks present in the grazing area may be significantly reduced. Prevention is much easier than treatment. We have used a number of preparations but find “SWIFT®” a pour on type, to be very effective and easy to administer (we use a syringe to apply along the back-line). Antivenin costs around $350 per shot (2001 price), plus any vet expenses. Swift is approximately $55 per litre. 40ml treats a 350kg animal and the effect lasts approximately six weeks in dry weather.

Donkeys should be checked regularly for engorged ticks. Ticks tend to accumulate on front legs, chest, under the jaw, on the neck and around the face. The rear of the animal should be checked as well.

Symptoms and Signs. Symptoms and signs appear after the tick has been feeding for a couple of days. An affected donkey is likely to die if not treated quickly. An antivenin is now available. We have personal experience of one distressing incident when a 14-month-old filly suffered tick paralysis. An engorged tick was located and removed one July morning but the donkey was found that same evening suffering paralysis, and unable to stand up (see following images). Fortunately, the animal recovered, due to antivenin administered by our vet and a week of very time consuming care. In January 2008 a donkey, a jenny, was discovered off her feed and susequently a tick was removed from her offside shoulder. She appeared to recover during the next two days, but rapidly declined and developed inflamation of the lungs and could not be treated in time to save her, despite a vet being summoned. The vet located a second tick that was missed in the previous inspection. The donkey remained on her feet for the entire episode. She died of fluid in the lungs as a direct result of the tick bite.

Treatment. The affected animal should be searched to find the tick or ticks. The tick should be killed with an insecticide e.g. SWIFT®, or Permoxin®. Use a cotton bud or a spray. Leave the tick to die then remove it using tweezers. Allowing the tick to die in place minimises further transfer of venom and may help to induce an immune response in the victim. Do not use irritant substances such as kerosene, as the tick may react and inject more venom. Should the head of the tick remain in place, remove it by scratching with the tweezers or a fingernail. The head will not inject more venom but may cause a local infection.

The animal’s condition may deteriorate even once all the ticks have been killed or removed as the toxin build up has a time lag and delayed reactions are common.

If suffering any degree of paralysis, and not treated, an animal may die from respiratory failure, pneumonia or may drown from fluid in the lungs. A vet should be consulted. The paralysis makes the animal sensitive to extremes of heat and cold because the brain’s thermostat is affected. This requires that the animal be moved into shelter or that some form of shelter be built around the animal. Trying to move even a 3/4 grown donkey, single-handed is extremely difficult.

Pressure Sores. The animal will suffer from pressure sores by prolonged lying down on a hard surface. Rolling the animal over regularly will reduce the severity of pressure sores that will develop. The bony protuberances such as hips and shoulders are most vulnerable. Alternatively, the animal should be suspended in a sling. Attempts to provide cushioning may be difficult, I eventually made a thick bed of hay, and supported the animal between cushions made of feedbags stuffed with hay. (See pictures)

Other secondary infections may result from by grit getting into eyes and in abrasions caused by the animal’s struggles to get up.

Preparations need to be made to clean up dung and urine from around the animal. If not cleaned up, urine may cause loss of hair and infections because a donkey’s urine is very concentrated.

Rehabilitation. The animal may be weakened for several months by the toxin and a period of rehabilitation and rest should be allowed for. Strenuous exercise should be avoided in the first few days and up to six weeks to allow a gradual recovery of heart, lungs, muscles, and nerve tissue.

Poisonous Plants

[Wilderness Expeditions is in the process of assembling a library of images of toxic plants for display here]

Donkeys are usually reluctant to eat strange or unknown plants. However if hungry they may sample anything green. The following plants that are toxic to equines grow in Northern Australia, and should be identified and avoided:

Do not use this species of tree for tying to, and ensure no trees or seedlings are within reach when night lined. Generally found north and west of Mareeba, across northern Australia to the Kimberley. Common on sandy soils and ridgelines.

(This plant is responsible for the deaths of many of Abdul Wade' s camels employed in pack teams in the Mount Garnet area in the 1800's.)

Poison heart-leaf bush (Gastrolobium grandiflorum). Common in lower rainfall areas.

Green cestrum (Cestrum parqui).

Gympie Bush or Stinging Tree (Dendrocnide moroides) .

This plant may occur along rainforest edges, such as tracks, and clearings. The large heart shaped leaves are covered in hairy spines. which can impale the skin and cause intense pain. The pain may persist for several days and even return over many months. Horses, mules and donkeys can be affected which may cause panic and stampeding. Early records indicate that horses have died (from panicking and bolting into the bush) as a result of contact with Stinging Trees in the rainforests of North Queensland.

The range of this plant extends from the tropical rainforests of north Queensland to the temperate forests of NSW.

Poison Peach (Trema tormentosa). Common in creek lines in dry savannah and open woodlands.

Rubber Vine (Cryptosetegia grandiflora). An invasive vine weed that infects watercourses.

Oleander (Nerium Oleander). Once a popular ornamental plant in pioneer gardens.

Yellow Oleander (Thevetia Peruviana). Popular ornamental shrub in tropical gardens, produces yellow flowers and distinctive seedpods.

Mother of Millions (Bryophyllum Sp). A succulent weed, planted around pioneer settlements for it’s distinctive and attractive red flowers. Can be ingested accidentally during browsing. Highly toxic when flowering. Can cause heart failure.

Avocado trees (Persea americana). Horses are recorded to die from eating avocado foliage. Our donkeys have eaten avocado leaves without apparent ill effects. Best to make sure by avoiding any risk.

Rattlepod (Crotalaria sp). Tall, distinctive weeds with yellow pea flowers and seedpods that rattle distinctively when dry.

Cycads and Zamias, various species. All cause “staggers’ when foliage is eaten. Once the signs are observed the animal has suffered significant liver damage and is unlikely to recover.

Lantana (Lantana camara). Common invasive shrub in higher rainfall areas and creek lines. Distinctive red or yellow flowers in compact heads. Crushed leaves produce a distinct aroma. Cumulative toxin that affects liver and nervous system. Donkeys will eat this plant.

Coffee Senna (Senna occidentalis).

Sicklepod (Senna obtusifolia). Shrub to 2.5m high, yellow pea shaped flowers that result into sickle shaped seed pods 10-15cm long.

Crofton Weed (Eupatorium adenophorum).

Indigos (Indigofera spp).

Blue Heliotrope (Heliotropium amplexicaule).

Noogoora burr (Xanthium pungens). Distinctive spiny seed pods to 2 cm long. Infests creek banks.

St Barnaby’s Thistle (Centuria solstitialis).

Setaria (Seraria sphacelata).

Bellyache Bush (Jatropha gossypifolia). Foliage is toxic, seeds are highly toxic. Found on creek and river banks. Forms dense thickets, One of the Wildex pack team lost large tufts of hair from contact with sap from this plant

Big head is a condition caused by calcium deficiency. Certain introduced tropical grasses contain high levels of calcium oxalate that bind up the calcium and prevent calcium being absorbed from the grass during digestion. The animal compensates by dissolving calcium from internal bone structures to maintain heart and muscle functions. Facial bones are replaced by fibrous tissue, which gives a swollen appearance, hence the common name of this condition.

Feeding diets high in grains and or bran can also cause the calcium deficiencies.

Safe Grasses. The following introduced grasses have sufficiently high calcium to oxalate ratios and are considered safe:

The mixture should be fed weekly or divided up and feed daily. The molasses makes the mixture palatable.

Other mixes and supplements may be given but the calcium to phosphorus ratio should be 2:1. Prepared supplement blocks or Lucerne hay are alternatives; but these can be quite expensive.

Further information: McKenzie, RA (1994) Plant Poisonings of Horses in Australia. Proceedings of the 16th Bain-Fallon Memorial Lectures, Australian Equine Veterinary Association, Sydney edited by T. M. Dyke, pp 1-56

Enquiries regarding identification of pasture grasses should be directed to the local Department of Primary Industry.

Grazing and Agistment. Ensure that the pasture is suitable for equines. Donkeys will not eat certain species of grass introduced to feed cattle, such as Brachiaria. The area should be large enough to feed the animal(s). Donkeys need a minimum of about 2 acres per animal in reasonable growing conditions. If natural grazing is depleted, available grass will need to be supplemented by hay. Supplementary hay should be 3kg of hay per donkey per day. If supplementary feed is not provided the donkeys will ring bark trees and damage fences by chewing posts, gates, and rails.

Fences should be sound and a reliable water point available. Donkeys will drink up to 30 litres in a day in hot conditions. Normally about 15 litres, donkeys will not drink polluted water and all troughs should be checked daily to ensure that sufficient water is available, and that dead birds, rotting vegetation etc, do not contaminate it.

My observations are that donkeys do not force fences, however if presented with a convenient break they will take advantage of it and can quickly eat gardens of roses, palm trees and other ornamentals.

Donkeys will create a dust bath somewhere in the paddock and this may develop into a crater that requires backfilling periodically.

Dung should be collected on a daily basis from small paddocks to reduce pasture contamination by worm larvae and to maintain the grazing area. Donkeys will not eat grass contaminated by dung for up to 12 months after the dung has rotted down.

Neighbours. Donkeys, particularly jacks and geldings can be very noisy, braying at all hours, The brays can carry for long distances and can upset neighbours.

Feeding. Feeding donkeys correctly can save a lot of side effects that require effort and possibly expense later.

Laminitis and feet problems invariably follow from poor diet or incorrectly balanced supplements. [See feet care below]

Tropical soils and grasses often are lack nutrients and require some form of supplementation. This may be easily achieved by use of salt and mineral blocks to provide additional phosphorus and calcium. Alternatively mineral supplements can be made up using molasses and lime etc.

Donkeys require less feed than a horse but, due to their evolution, require a high roughage diet. If they consider that they require additional roughage, donkeys will sample fence posts, tree bark or any other available source.

Do not feed lawn clippings to animals. The rapid onset of composting will cause a build up of mould and fungi that may kill or cause severe illness to a donkey (or horse). Do not feed mouldy hay or any type of feed for the same reasons.

A common supplement feed in north Queensland is “Mill Run ®”. This by-product of milling wheat and contains both bran and pollard. Mill Run™ is high in energy and protein but lacks minerals, and the bran content may cause big head with prolonged use (see above). Mill Run may be fed combined with Copra (a coconut meal) to boost protein content. The mixture should be wetted before feeding and fed with chaff or other “filler” to achieve high roughage content.

Convenient premixed supplements for use during trekking are Mitevite Economix® or Sweetbulk®. Both contain mineral and vitamin supplements designed for equines. The donkeys will normally be able to forage sufficient fodder to make up the bulk required during the trek.

Treats. Donkeys appreciate treats. Treats should be handed out intermittently so that they are not expected and demanded. Spoilt donkeys may become aggressive and intimidating. Surprisingly, peppermints make good rewards and treats and are very useful during treks as bribes.

People feeding treats to an uncontrolled group of donkeys should be very aware of a competitive situation that may arise, and be very careful that competing donkeys do not bite fingers in haste. It is best to feed treats from a bucket or bowl in this situation and have the animals tied up or fed across a gate or similar barrier.

Shelter. Donkeys are not waterproofed by nature as they have evolved in dry desert regions. If a horse's coat is compared to that of a donkey it will found that a donkey’s coat does not contain the waterproofing grease of a horse’s coat, nor does the donkey have such a strong smell.

Shelter from rain, wind, and extreme sun is essential for a donkey. This does not have to be elaborate, but needs to be robust and safe. Edges of corrugated iron and nails must be covered and exposed ends of tie wires should be folded away.

Companions. Donkeys are a very social animal and can form very strong bonds with fellow donkeys or other animals. It is often best to keep two donkeys as they entertain each other and provide companionship. They can also reinforce each other and get up to mischief.

Grooming. Grooming intensifies a bond and trust between a donkey and it’s owner/handler. Donkeys enjoy being brushed. Grooming should be completed in a systematic routine so that the animal understands what is to happen. Tie the animal up short to a suitable post or stable tie up ring. Use a quick release hitch. Check for safety for you and the animal. Ensure that the animal will be safe if left alone when tied up and check for obstacles, overhead branches etc that may cause inconvenience or risk to yourself. Start at the head and work down the nearside (right hand when looking front to rear) making sure that the underbelly and legs are well brushed and clean. Feel the coat with your fingers for seeds and burrs if saddling is intended. Once the nearside is completed, brush out the tail, taking it to one side so that you cannot be kicked. Then move around to offside and work back from the head repeating the process. Be careful to position yourself where you cannot be kicked particularly when grooming the lower legs.

Feet Care. A donkey’s feet are made up of a complex laminate of fibrous layers, that allow the foot to absorb the impact caused by striking the ground and allows the hoof wall to expand and contract during the stride.(An equine walks on an adaptation of the index finger and large toe.) These lamina are susceptible to damage caused by invasion of bacteria, or from acid build ups caused by incorrect diet. Laminates can detach from the structure causing pain and lameness, or allow the pedal bone to ”sink” thereby causing structural damage and permanent lameness. Damage to the laminates is called "founder" or laminitis and may occur within hours, given the right conditions.

For this reason donkeys should not be fed bread or similar refined food products, as these are known to contribute to the build up of acid conditions in the feet lamina and directly cause laminitis.

The hoof grows down from the “Coronary Band” at a rate of approximately a hoof length per year. Normal wear caused by walking on gravely or stony ground will maintain the hoof at the correct length. Growth will exceed wear when a donkey is kept in grassy or small paddocks. The hoof wall should be rasped flat and to the correct angle and length each six to eight weeks. This maintains the foot at the correct angle to the legs and stops tension developing on tendons and connective tissue.

The sole, grooves, frog and other soft tissue should be trimmed using a “hoof knife” to remove any folds and infected material, and to maintain the correct shape of the foot. Care should be taken not to cut deeply into the sole because this material is comparatively shallow. I find that a “loop” bladed type knife is the safest to work with. Due to the awkward shape of a hoof knife it is best to use a chainsaw file or diamond dust rod to maintain a sharp blade.

Feet should be cleaned regularly using a hoof pick to remove dung and debris that has collected in the groves and around the sole.

Conditions known as "greasy heel" and "thrush" develop in wet conditions. Bacteria and fungal combinations which attack the softer layers can be treated with a bleach type detergent such as WhiteKing® or similar domestic cleaning products. Simply spray a light application of the bleach solution onto the affected area.

Worms can develop immunity to certain chemicals over a period of time. Change the worming formula periodically to avoid building up a resistant population of worms.

Tapeworms and Bot Fly larvae treatments require different formulae and treatment is not required as often as for other worm parasites. The addition of "max" in the brand name normally indicates that it is suitable for the treatment of tapeworms. Suggested treatment is:

• Tapeworms - once per year; and
• Bot Fly larvae – one dose each Spring and Autumn

External pests such as lice may be treated using Swift® or a similar pyrethrum based compound. A pour on type is most convenient and is very economical in time. These compounds will also provide some limited control of ticks, and good control of nuisances such as Buffalo flies and sandflies.

Training. Donkeys need to be trained to tie up, pick up feet, and lead as a bare minimum to allow for care and welfare. This is best initiated as soon as possible after birth. All animals, once trained, require regular catching and leading “practice” to maintain co- operation attitudes.

Initial training or “breaking in” of donkeys requires knowledge of techniques and is best left to reputable trainers who have the necessary experience and skills. It is very easy to teach the wrong lessons.

Donkeys are far more co-operative if they trust the handler. This relationship may take some time and effort to establish.

Established trust can be fairly fragile initially and simple handling mistakes can jeopardise this relationship. Donkeys are quick to sense losses of temper or impatience, and they react accordingly. So, if frustrated by a lack of cooperation in your donkey, tie him up in a safe situation and walk away, enjoy a rest and review what you are doing wrong.

Most floats are built for horses and the breast bars and tail bars are two tall for donkeys. The donkeys can knock their chins on the breast bar and this can set up an objection to entering the float again. If the float is to be used regularly for donkeys then it is worthwhile modifying the height of the bars.

Donkeys can be very difficult to load into a float. If this is the case then patience and persistence will win. Whips, beatings, and loss of temper will just make loading more difficult during subsequent attempts. A lead rope secured to the front of the float with some body pushing from behind is often successful. A small bucket of molasses at the front of the float may also make loading easier. Often the objection is the angle and hollow sound of the ramp or that the float appears to be a trap. Open the front access door to allow as much light in a possible but make sure your donkey does not escape through the gap once inside!

Donkeys travel well in stock trucks. Loading is simple if you have access to loading ramp and race. If not have the truck back up to a convenient bank or road cutting. Make sure the animals are untied but “blocked up” as they will then support each other during cornering and rough spots.

Note: When using hay net it should be tied well up on a post or wall so that the donkey's feet cannot become entangled in the net's mesh.

First Aid. A basic first aid kit should be kept in an accessible place. The kit should include:

Establish a good working relationship with your chosen veterinary surgeon. Donkeys are not common, and your vet may not fully understand the subtle differences between donkeys and horses. Most treatments are virtually interchangeable, but anaesthetics and some drugs require different doses.

Have copies of reference material available such as web pages, or manuals such as the “Professional Donkey Care Manual” obtainable from the Donkey Sanctuary or "Donkey Business III" (A$29.00) obtainable from The Good Samaritan Donkey Sanctuary.

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